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'99 Kawasaki Vulcan Nomad 1500 engine stalls in idle, bogs when throttled up? Had some major issues with my VN1500-G1. Riding on the freeway and the engine lost power for a second (as if I ws throttle braking) then shut off completely. Got it started after a little cranking and went on my merry way. About 50 miles from my home it happened again and wouldn't start. Once I got it home I tried to start it again. The relay clicked like there wasn't enough power to turn the engine over, and the pistons would move only once in awhile. Tested the battery, 12v over with key on, and 4v with the starter going. Replaced the battery and tried to restart it. Engine turned over, and had a knock noise from rear cylinder and oil indicator light came on. Drained the oil to see if I had large metal chunks in it. Bike has a 3.5 liter or 3.8 quart oil capacity, only about 2/3 of a quart came out, with only one visible piece of metal. Put new oil in it (OEM Spec) and fired it up. Idled fine with no knock for about a minute, turned the throttle to see if it'd rev healthy, and it bogged down instead. I let it sit in idle, and less than a minute later the engine stalled out again and would not start. Let it sit overnight, still wont start in the morning. I really prefer not to take the engine apart as I have no tools to get the monster off the frame, and mechanics want $65 + just to look at it. Any suggestions as to where to look next for issues that could be the cause? I'm no pro on this but I noticed you said you changed the oil but no mention of changing the oil filter. Doubt it would make the difference between it running or not but....
Sounds like you're going to have to bite the bullet here and have it broke down and examined internally. You could be doing damage by trying to run it so much. Just take it in.

Need help with my 4 wheeler...? I have an 07 Prairie 360 4x4 that I am having problems with. It was running fine, but had a little popping or backfiring in the carb, but no big deal. It would still run just fine. Now, it decided to run like $#!*. I took into the Kawasaki Dealership and they did a valve adjustment, went through the carb and replaced the slide, replaced the plug and gapped it at .35, replaced the plug wire, drained the tank, cleaned it and filled it with 93 octane gas. After all this and over $400, it still runs like crap. It will start up after trying for about a minute, run rough and idle out when it warms up. When you hit the throttle, it will sputter really bad. After the sputter, it will gain rpm then sputter like hell at top end. It has no low end torque or power, then hits a power band, then top out and lose power and sputter. I thought it was just from sitting for a few months, but have went through everything that would have possibly went bad while sitting. Does anyone have any ideas? I cant afford to spend another dime on this thing. I have all the manuals, tools, ect. I just need to know where to look. The feul pump could need fixin'

Kawasaki ZX-10r or BMW S1000RR? I've owned an '06 Suzuki Katana, and an '06 Kawasaki ZX-14. I'm now in the market for a liter bike and have narrowed it down to either a 2011 Kawasaki ZX-10r (non-ABS) or a 2011 BMW S1000RR. I prefer doing all maintenance and fixes myself as I have never had a good experience with a mechanic... ever. So does the BMW require any special tools or higher priced/rare replacement parts? The minor HP difference isn't a concern to me, and is "fixable" regardless. I just want which ever will be more reliable and last longer with proper maintenance, and see what others think. (please note, I have owned and raced bikes with similar power and am not new to motorcycling. Please do not respond with statements such as "get a smaller bike" or "more beginner friendly" I have asked questions before where people fail to read the fact that I have owned high performance bikes and know what I'm doing, but proceed to waste our time posting similar statements. Thanks much for you input, and happy riding) Bit of a tough choice. The bikes are very similar in specs so it would really come down to personal taste. If you like funky headlights, then go for the BM.
"I prefer doing all maintenance and fixes myself". Unless you are a factory trained mechanic, I wouldn't be touching either bike, They are so chock full of electronics and technology to be way over the head of even the best backyard mechanic (maybe change the oil). If you think you can work on them, good luck to you.
The hp difference (193 vs 200) is academic unless you are in a superbike racing team. Both bikes are still new and I haven't seen much in the way of go fast bits (there's a few bits available for the BM, some special exhaust from Europe) and there should be some WSBK bits floating about somewhere.
Personally I would go for the Kwaka. If something was to go bung with the BM, the parts alone would be the GDP of a small country.

Who makes Kawasaki power hand tools? I have had a Kawasaki drill for only a few months and it has stopped working. It should have a warranty, but I can't find where to send it to. I don't have the original packaging, just the case. Alltrade Tools (www.alltradetools.com). Navigate to "product support" , then to "parts and service" for their phone number and address. To see the warranty on Kawasaki tools, navigate from the "product support" page to "product registration". Click on "Kawasaki" , then the link "click here for warranty".
Hope this helps.

kawasaki power tool needs repaired? where can i get a kawasaki 19.2 volt reciprocating saw repaired? Two possibilities, look up Kawasaki under Power Tool Dealers, in the yellow pages of the phone book, or visit Kawasaki's web page and they will probably have a way to find the nearest repair station. Otherwise try your closest electric motor repair station.

Kawasaki heat gun vs milawauke heat gun? I am purchasing a heat gun to reflow ps3s and Xbox 360s, I am stuck between two heat guns that are near the same price, which do you think is better for reflowing? http://dealnay.com/750400/kawasaki-840015-black-10-piece-heat-gun-kit.html http://www.homedepot.com/Tools-Hardware-Power-Tools-Heat-Guns/h_d1/N-5yc1vZ1xr5Zbauo/R-100396206/h_d2/ProductDisplay?langId=-1&storeId=10051&catalogId=10053 Thanks you do realize you posted this in the correct, category, right?
In that vein I say 'neither' as you will hurt yourself as you are apparently careless

Kawasaki heat gun vs milawauke heat gun? I am purchasing a heat gun to reflow ps3s and Xbox 360s, I am stuck between two heat guns that are near the same price, which do you think is better for reflowing? http://dealnay.com/750400/kawasaki-840015-black-10-piece-heat-gun-kit.html http://www.homedepot.com/Tools-Hardware-Power-Tools-Heat-Guns/h_d1/N-5yc1vZ1xr5Zbauo/R-100396206/h_d2/ProductDisplay?langId=-1&storeId=10051&catalogId=10053 Thanks Why this question is in Hunting section ? Shouldn't it be somewhere in Home improvements?

Motorcycle lost power, checked battery? Lost power a couple of days ago, biked died. Was able to restart and get bike home (wasn't too far), bike power failed twice more. Seemed to operate better with choke open at a low speed. Occasional knocking was present. Just checked battery and the standard is 12.6 V. My meter read 12.39-12.4. Haven't checked spark plugs yet due to missing tool, but curious to know if this is the main problem. Bike is kawasaki vulcan 800. It may have coughed a sputtered a bit with the choke open, but this is the first time it happened and I had just filled it up a few days prior. I had at most used half a tank of gas when it happened. not a charging problem your voltage should be 13.5 14.5 @ 2 to 3000 rpm bike will not show charging at idle and will show 12.6, if you needed to run with the choke making it richer did it cough and sputter while you rode it home? if this hasn,t happened before and started after your last fill up bad gas will do it, disconnect the fuel line and drain about a pint and let it sit watch for water on the bottom.

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