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best way to clean inside of computer (custom build)? I built this computer about 3 years ago but I am having trouble cleaning it the way I want. Should I remove the CPU cooler and the fan off my graphics card? to date, I've been using a tooth brush and canned air to blow out some of the dust. During the summer when I am running CPU intensive apps, the CPU temp started rising above 65c. The heatsink on the CPU cooler has a lot of dust in it I can't remove, but I don't know if I remove it then will I have to reapply more arctic silver 5. Or just remove it and clip it back on. Also. I've taken the fan off the graphics card to clean it, but I don't know if that's a good idea either. I clean the filter on the Antec Sonata III case every few months. And what about getting the dust out of the 2 usb ports and e-sata port in the front? I don't want to push the existing dust in there any further. AMD Athlon AM2 socket 6000+ Zalman CNPS 9500 CPU cooler ATI Radeon HD 4850 Graphics adapter SB X-fi Extreme gamer audio Well, if you built it, you can figure out how to remove the cpu fan/heatsink assembly. You already know that you will need to buy some new thermal paste, right? I recommend Arctic Silver 5 for the job. I give all my computers a thorough cleaning once a year (if not sooner).
You can use q tips and some rubbing alcohol to remove the old heatsink compound from both the cpu and the heatsink. In the mean time, use a vacuum cleaner and suck the dirt out of the fan part. Use q tips and alcohol to clean the fan's fins and if the heatsink has fins, do the same. Use the thermal paste, a dab about the size of half a pea and spread it with your index finger (that is what I do) until it completely covers the top of the cpu. Reseat the heatsink/fan and secure it in place.
I always use a vacuum cleaner, never a can of air, because canned air just blows the dust around, not remove it. A good sucker vacuum will do a miracle job compared to a lousy can of compressed air. I use q tips and alcohol and clean all my case fans. I remove all the cards, the video and other cards and clean them separately.
Of course, I have totally discharged capacitors by pushing the ON button after disconnection from the wall sockets and make sure that I am thorougly grounded so that I don't wipe out computer parts with static electricity.
Don't ever take the cpu fan/heatsink apart and then just figure the old stuff is still going to work. That's a great way of burning your cpu up in no time. You have to use new thermal paste!

Remove the Mobo when installing Zalman CNPS9700 CPU Fan? I'm thinking about ordering this fan for my computer. Its not really necessary for me to have a fan of this type, but I've had a lot of good luck with Zalman in the past and I really like the way this particular fan is designed. I had a Zalman 7000 fan before, and I remember having to put a bracket on the back of the motherboard before installing the fan. Is this fan the same way? Or does it use the clips that are standard on my Asus AM2 socket motherboard? You might have to I'm not possitive, but is is a possibility. I have either a 7000, 7500, or 7700 on one of my systems (can't remember which), but I was able to rig it on without pulling the motherboard.
I would personally opt for the CNPS 8700 as it is likely to have a mounting mechanism similar if not the same as the older Zalman coolers, while still being heatpipe. I also hear the 9 series was hard to mount.
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16835118030&Tpk=CNPS8700

Can buying a cheap aftermarket fan Fry my CPU? I bought a cheap 11 dollar heatsink and fan to go with my amd duel core 6000+ cpu Masscool 5F9001B1H3 CPU Cooling Fan - Socket 939, 940, AM2, AM2+ It came preapplied with paste, however I did touch it but i doubt that did anything So im thinking maybe Because it just isnt right for the cpu. they are both am2 but the motherboard has three spots for clips on EACH side. But the heatsink and fan only have one which i put in the middle of the other two. Anyways I suspect that this heatsink and fan are the cause of my problems. Either that or the motherborad Oh yeah and It shuts off after 3 seconds AND YES I TRYD EVERYTHInG PSU, MEMORY, RISER SCREWS, WIREING, etc. Only two things remain for me and that is cpu heatsink and fan and motherboard defective This is my cpu AMD Athlon 64 X2 6000+ Processor ADX6000IAA6CZ - 3.0GHz, 1MB Cache, 1000MHz (2000 MT/s) FSB, Windsor, Dual-Core, OEM, Socket AM2, Processor Yep, sounds like its overheating. But if its still turning on, your CPU isn't fried... yet. A different heat sink ought to fix it up

Help with CPU Fan Issue Please (MAX POINTS)? I just got this fan the Ultra X Wind and when I try to put it onto my motherboard the clips on the side wont reach... The fan is compatible with AM2 socket which is mine. http://i54.tinypic.com/wsrdd4.jpg If your base is installed correctly, a big if
Then one end(no thumb pad) hooks to the base, then you have to push down on the thumb pad(black plastic in pic you cited). I mean push hard as heck and then hook it may need to use tools to push down on it and push in to hook.
This ain't easy, just keep trying really hard.
AAS Computer Networking
Have two Socket AM2 at home.

What's causing my computer to reboot and lockup during gaming? Especially in Battlefield 2142 and World of Warcraft, my computer reboots itself or locks up after about 10 minutes of game play. I also cannot view any video clips or movies whatsoever. I've downloaded the latest Nvidia drivers, and changed out the power supply but it's still doing it. I've also tested to make sure the RAM and video cards were operating correctly, which they are. Any advice I can get on how to fix this would be greatly appreciated, because the tech support of the manufacturer is next to useless and so is my Christmas present =(. Specs: OS: XP Pro X64 Mobo: (Socket AM2)ABIT KN9 SLI nForce 570 SLI MCP Chipset DDR2/800 SATA-II RAID 16x PCI-Express MBoard w/GbLAN,USB2.0,&7.1Audio CPU: (Socket AM2) AMD Athlon(TM)64 X2 4200+ Dual-Core CPU w/ HyperTransport Technology HD: Single Hard Drive (320GB SATA-II 3.0Gb/s 16MB Cache 7200RPM HDD) Memory: 2GB (2x1GB) PC6400 DDR2/800 Dual Channel Video: 2 Nvidia Geforce 7950 GT 512mb 16X cards in SLI Power supply: 800 W 7 case fans If your computer is not working properly while you are working on it, it could be a problem with device drivers, hardware or software.
Detailed instructions at http://tinyurl.com/yk5zpr

Found the mother board that I want to use(need advice)? the motherboard is ASUS M34 AM2+/AM2 ATX AMD MOTHERBOARD i want my computers to do the following below without having all of the tangle cord mess. 1.create presentation 2.prepare documents 3.play multimedia games 4.listen to music and view movies 5.chat with friends and relatives online 6.store photographs 7.browse the internet and send and receive email using telephone jack. this is what i want to first computer to do the second computer i want the same as above but these addtions: 1.there should be no cluttering of cable on desk 2.the monitor should produce high quality so that i can see 3.the speakers should produce stereo sound good quality 4.the keyboard and mouse should be convenient to use 5.the computer performance should not deteriorate while online viewing video clips or listening to audio clips 6.the computer should not stop responding while playing games 7.i should be able to play online games with no problem 8 i should be able to upgrade if i want. now I have to make sure that i get everything right because the hard part is making sure everything works together, the sound cards, monitor, memory, basically everything i already found a place to order my parts and what not but I can sure use some information from you all out there. this is a challenge and then some, putting the computer together is no problem getting the blasted parts and making sure that it is compatible is the hardest part. please feed me information and if you out there have a fax my fax number is 1-404-963-6258. i was thinking maybe physically going to a computer store that sell parts and maybe asking them, CPU Socket Type: AM2+/AM2 CPU Type: Phenom FX / Phenom / Athlon 64 FX / Athlon 64 X2 FSB: 2600MHz Hyper Transport (5200 MT/s) Chipset North Bridge: AMD 770 Chipset South Bridge: ATI SB600 Number of Memory Slots: 4×240pin Memory Standard: DDR2 1066 Maximum Memory Supported: 8GB Dual Channel Supported: Yes PCI Express x16: 1 PCI Express x1: 2 PCI Slots: 3 PATA: 1 x ATA100 2 Dev. Max SATA 3Gb/s: 4 SATA RAID: 0/1/0+1 Onboard Video: None Onboard Audio: Yes Audio Chipset: Realtek ALC883 Audio Channels: 8 Channels Onboard LAN: Yes Max LAN Speed: 10/100/1000Mbps Onboard USB: 6 x USB 2.0 Rear Panel Port PS/2: 2 Rear Panel Port COM: 1 Rear Panel Port USB: 4 x USB 2.0 Rear Panel Port S/PDIF Out: 1x Coaxial Rear Panel Port Audio Ports: 6 Ports Form Factor: ATX Dimensions: 12" x 8.6" Windows Vista: Certified for Windows Vista I know the tangle cords have nothing to do with the motherboard i was speaking in general about how i want my computer to be on the desk, without all of the cords all over i also found a case that i can use that takes care of that area. but my main thing is making sure i have the right motherboard for the task that i want my computer to perform that is the hard part, not to mention making sure the sound cards, everything internal and external is compatible. You might want to consider a notebook/laptop, because the "tangle cord mess" is a fact of life for desktop computers. You can buy cable management enclosures and tie things up neatly, but consider:
1) A monitor requires two cables, one connects to your computer, and one for power.
2) A mouse connects to your computer via a cord- even a cordless mouse has a base unit that plugs into a USB port (and sometimes has a short cord)
3) If you have stereo speakers, those will connect to your computer with a cord. There will also be a cord for power, and a cord connecting the left/right speakers. If you elmininate those last two cables by choosing a monitor with built-in speakers, the trade-off is sound quality. And you still need the a cord to connect to your computer
4) Additonal devices like printers, Ipods, digital cameras etc connect to your computer using USB cables (again, cords)
Any current computer with a Core 2 Duo processor, good video card, sound card and 3GB of RAM can handle 1-6 on your list.
I would recommend a Core 2 Duo E2180 or better CPU, Geforce 8600GT or better video card, and Sound Blaster Audigy sound card. Since your motherboard is AMD, go with an Athlon X2 6000+
As for #7- DSL service runs over a regular telephone line and provides high-speed internet service. If DSL is available in your area, that's your solution. If not, you'll need cable Internet service, since dial-up via traditional phone lines doesn't provide the kind of speed you're looking for.

which connector should I use for the 4 pin +12v power connector? I have an AM2 cpu socket motherboard specifically it is an ECS elitegroup GeForce7050M-M it has a 4 pin 12v socket. the power supply is an ultra V series 500 watt ATX the box says "meets ATX Version 2.03 and ATX 12v Version 1.2 Specifications" the power supply has no 4 pin connectors that fit, but it does have a 6 pin and an 8 pin that will fit. the 6 pin has 3 black wires on the clip side the 8 pin is the other polarity, with the yellow wires on the clip side. which one should I use? in a 4 pin connector, is +12v on the clip side or is the clip side ground? thanks the power supply is new, I got it a few years ago and am just now getting around to assembling a computer I contacted the ultra company they said the 8 pin is splittable into 2 x 4 pin connectors great support! I have not seen a PSU without a 4 pin +12 connector since before the Pentium 4.
You can Buy Molex to 4 Pin adapters.
I would seriously question that PSU. Must be 10 years old or better.

Does the CPU cooler/heatsink have to be cliped in a computer to be able to power up? basically ive got a computer ive tried to make but it wont show any signs of power, the socket type of the motherboard is AM2+ and the cpu cooler that i bought said it would work with AM2 and AM2+ but it doesn't actualy clip in place, the clips dont reach were there meant to clip on to. Would this stop the computer from power up at all

I cant get my AM2 AMD CPU fan to clip to the motherboard? I dont know why, maybe the crappy instructional diagrams, but i cant clip both sides only one at a time. Does it really matter if they clip or not or can you help me in getting it to clip properly? thnx well those instruction are all you have so! and yes it has to be clipped in. The socket is a ZIF socket (Zero Insertion Force) so yes that clip is important. all you have to do is line up the pins and clip it in and close the clip.

what is my cpu heat sink? well i want to change my heat sink, i have a socket for am2, am2+ and am3 processors the one im looking at as 4 bolt mounts (like the xbox 360 heat sink) but the one i have at the moment has the two clips either side i know its wrong, but the heat sink says suitable for am2 cpu's!! so im confused and going to give up, but my pc is slowly over heaing :| my board is: geforce6100pm-m2 if you can find a heat sink and fan on amazon.co.uk or ebay for this mobo please help :( thanks (sorry for being a noob) :( The heatsink is the UNDERNEATH part (normally) of the cpu fan/heatsink assembly. Usually, the heatsink is comprised of a "block" of metal and accompanied by heat fins. Sometimes there are pipes that lead from the heatsink to the fins which are of course, called "heat pipes." Somewhere on the module is a fan, either imbedded in the heatsink, the fins or sits on the top of or immediately to the right or left of the heatsink itself.
I would recommend looking at Zahlman, Thermaltake or Cooler Master units. Cheap does not always and necessarily mean "bad" when it comes to these units. There are some $30 units that are just as good as the $65 ones. There are usually three varieties of these units, all aluminum, some part aluminum and some part copper and then, for the most expensive, all copper. Aluminum does not retain heat as long as copper does, but copper is superior in heat transfer to aluminum, so there is a trade-off. What I am saying is that the copper unit will be hotter to the touch, but will pull heat away from the CPU faster and aluminum will feel cooler to the touch but will be slower to pull heat away from the CPU. So, for a copper unit to be effective, it requires a bigger fan, and or a smaller one running at higher RPM rates. Thus, aluminum units tend to have fans which run with less RPM's but are smaller, while copper has bigger fans that run at increased RPM rates. All of this is intentional, of course, trying to counterbalance the gives and takes.
I like the Zahlman copper cooler designs the best, not just for performance, but also for looks. Zahlman has a tendency to come up with some interesting, and well lets face it, cool looking designs (pun intended, of course!). They tend to be more expensive of course, since they are all copper - they also tend to be larger than normal which results in a better heat dispersion despite the copper, designed to pull both heat from the CPU and cooled more rapidly than less well designed units.
Don't forget that you will need good quality thermal paste. Silver is superior in heat transfer than non-silver thermal compounds - on the average, you can drop the average operating temperature of a CPU by about 3 degrees C using a silver based thermal paste. In my opinion, any reduction in heat on the CPU is worth a few extra bucks. So I always buy Arctic Silver 5, and you can get it on Newegg for about $8 a small tube.
Silver, by the way, is superior to aluminum and copper both in heat dispersion and cooling rates, but you can only imagine the cost of an all-silver unit. That is why they don't exist for civilian purposes, although I wouldn't doubt it if military versions do have special silver coolers.
I have noticed that Egghead is an especially poor resource for sourcing good quality fan/heatsink assemblies, and in particular, they don't have much of any kind of selection from Zahlman units.
So you may have to source it elsewhere, perhaps Tigerdirect or some other on-line vendor.
Here is the Zahlman link on the net:
http://www.zalman.com/eng/main.asp
Doing a Google, I found this which has a lot of pictures of several models:
http://www.google.com/search?hl=en&rlz=1B3GGGL_enUS358US361&q=zalman+cooler+%2B+Am2&aq=f&oq=&aqi=
Here is Thermaltake:
http://www.thermaltakeusa.com/
Here you can find choices:
http://www.thermaltakeusa.com/Category.aspx?C=1134
Surprisingly that Thermaltake has a LOT more alternatives:
http://www.thermaltakeusa.com/Products.aspx?C=1151
Here is Cooler Master:
http://www.coolermaster-usa.com/
Their Hyper 101A is a typical aluminum stacked cooler tower:
http://www.coolermaster-usa.com/product.php?product_id=2964
Anyway, what you need to do is locate the models you are very interested in, then check with Tom's Hardware and Anandtech and read up on their opinions and see what is the best for your pocketbook:
http://www.anandtech.com/
http://www.tomshardware.com/us/#redir
Once you have decided on a couple of models, then go out on the net using Google and Google the model(s) for sale sources and pricing. - Don't forget your thermal paste!

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